Bullet-Point Summary: Get her Bleaching best - EASY, FOOL-PROOF CHECKLIST

Use a good quality bleach, and also get prepared your 20 or 30 Vol developer.Use 2 parts of developer come 1 component of bleach. Mix in a non-metallic bowl until you obtain a smooth, nice paste.Apply on dry, unwashed hair.Use 20 Vol when you need to lift by 1-2 levels.Use 30 Vol once you must lift by 3 levels or more.Always lift come a an extremely pale yellow (see the photo above and additionally level 10 in the graph below).If there is orange in the hair after bleaching, the just way you did no bleach enough. Girlfriend will must rinse and do the again. To get an also consistent an outcome from roots to ends, always apply bleach first to the components that space the darkest or the brassiest so that they get more processing time.If you have a dark regrowth come lift and also blonde ends, only apply bleach to the regrowth area and lift that part up.Then rinse and you will be all set to tone.

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1. I beg your pardon Bleach have to I Use?

A good quality lightener which will certainly lift quickly and also efficiently there is no breaking or damaging is really essential. 

Ugly Duckling bleaches are very safe and have fantastic lifting properties.

If you are looking to carry out near-scalp bleaching, or if your client"s is excessively fine and fragile and also prone come breakage, we would suggest that girlfriend use Brilliant Blondexx lightener with Bond Protect.

Thanks to the Bond protect technology, that protects her hair from breakage as you lift it.

It is likewise gentle sufficient to usage on the near-root area and also near scalp bleaching through minimal scalp irritation.

This gift said, we constantly recommend that you go together close come the scalp without actually emotional it if you can. The bleach mixture will expand and also travel up towards the source area even if you continue to be a quarter of an inch away native the scalp.

Brilliant Blondexx elevator 7 levels without request excessively strong developers. 

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach with Bond Protect

2. What carry out I need apart native bleach?

In enhancement to your bleach girlfriend will likewise need:

a developer - 20 or 30 Volume, occasionally botha hair tonerPurple shampoo and mask for later on (optional)

You will additionally need application tools, including rubber gloves, a couple of brushes and bowls, a kitchen weighing scale, and a timer.

Ugly Duckling does sell a great quality collection of professional tools. Castle come free with some of Ugly Duckling"s blonding sets.

3. What Developer must I Use v Bleach?

If you room aiming come lift by 1-2 levels, you need 20 Vol developer.

If you are aiming come lift by 3 levels and also more, you need 30 Vol developer.

If you room working with an extremely dark hair, then you might need to execute a very first application through 30 Vol developer and then do a second application using 20 Vol developer. Just make a fresh mix and reapply ~ above the bleached hair while it is processing - no have to rinse and then bleach.

We execute not recommend that you ever before "bump up the Volume" and also use 40 Volume with our bleaches, no one is it necessary that you perform so. Simply stick to the over rules. Make multiple applications if necessary.

Use the level guide underneath come assess exactly how much bleaching is vital in your situation & which developer you are going to need.

Once again, remember: if you are trying to get to ash or platinum blonde, you need to lift all the way up come level 10. 

Hair color Levels


4. What is the correct Bleach come Developer Ratio? 

The encourage bleach come developer proportion is 1 part Bleach to 2 components developer.

This will provide you a relatively runny mix which will certainly be easy and also quick to apply.

Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will make it much easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus preventing patchy results.It will certainly also enable you to work-related fast. This also way you have longer come work prior to the mixture transforms dry.

The only time you will need a thicker mixture i beg your pardon won"t drip is when you are doing a balayage (free painting of highlights) or when you have a small area - for instance a dark regrowth which you want to emphasis on.

If a more thick mix is preferred, 1 component lightener come 1 component developer is good.

5. How do I Mix the Bleach through the Developer?

Use the scoop detailed in your Ugly Duckling bleach come measure the end the bleach. Then you have the right to use the very same scoop come measure the end your developer.Later, as soon as you are more experienced, you have the right to do it by sight.

Mix the bleach with your shade brush until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy).Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the flour bleach a little at a time, stirring together you do.


What a bleach mix must look choose - runny, yet not as well runny.

5. Exactly how Should I use the Bleach top top the Hair?

Hair bleach is as with hair color. The is best applied on dry, unwashed hair.Unwashed hair consists of natural hair oil & this help protects the hair during the bleaching process.Before bleaching, just brush the hair so the you can then ar & apply easily.

When applying, do fine segments utilizing a tailcomb. Apply segment through segment and also keep relocating around.

Always start in the locations where the hair is thickest or darkest. Hair at the back is usually the slowest come bleach.

Hair in ~ the root typically processes the fastest.

6. Just how Long have to I leave the Bleach top top the Hair?

Video indict - exactly how Long have to you leave bleach on the hair?

If her client"s hair is blonde (level 7 and higher) aim at between 15-20 minutes using 20 Vol developer.If her client"s hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at approximately 30 minutes utilizing 30 Vol developer.If your client"s hair is brown/dark brown (level 4-5), target at about around 30-40 minutes using 30 Vol developer v fresh mix included in during processing time.

The above indications apply to Ugly Duckling bleaches only. No all bleaches have actually the exact same lifting property.

More important than the moment is the target color that you space aiming for.You should keep watching and rinse only as soon as the hair has been saturated lifted.

Remember, in many cases you need to shot & attain a an extremely pale yellow - level 9 or 10. Watch pictures below for what level 9 and 10 look at like.

You require to inspect that the hair is lifting every 10 minutes. If there are parts which room drying out and also still not lifted to really pale yellow, do some an ext fresh mix and also just include it in.

Be bold, you are going to have to saturate the hair yes, really well so the it activates fast and well.

You can use foils. That will help keep warm in and also speed up processing time.

Don"t rinse too early - this is the number one mistake that stylists make! take it come level 9 at least (see below).

After 40 minutes, rinse every little thing the level. It will certainly be dry anyway, and will have actually stopped working. (Bleach stop processing when it turns dry).If you have actually not attained level 9/10, and listed the hair is tho in an excellent condition (check by pulling a strand that it"s still elastic and strong) you have the right to do a 2nd application.

Asian hair, spain hair, other dark hair might require a second bleach application to take it to level 9 or level 10.Hair that has actually been crate dyed dark or colored through a vibrant shade in the previous will likewise require a second application.

When you space doing a second application, it must not be important to use 30 Vol. This time usage 20 Vol.

You need to eliminate all the orange pigments and likewise most that the yellow pigments prior to you rinse. When you obtain to her target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will certainly close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process. You can likewise use purple shampoo. This will assist neutralize the color and take away few of the yellow.







7. How execute I an application of bleach ~ above the source area?

Generally speaking, virgin regrowth near the root will procedure and lift fairly quickly due to the heat of the scalp.20 Vol developer is what you require for the regrowth area near the scalp. Never ever use anything more powerful there unless you have actually some color removal you have to do.

If her client"s ends are perfectly light and only your regrowth is dark, then you only need to apply bleach ~ above the regrowth area.How long you leave it in will when again rely on how quickly that part takes to obtain to level 9/10.Brilliant Blondexx is a good lightener to usage for a near root application - it"s more comfortable & we do strongly introduce it for close to root applications.Note the you don"t actually have to deposit the bleach mixture ~ above the scalp: us recommend you stay 1/8 customs away native the source area.The mixture will take trip up, and also the warmth from the scalp will take care of the rest.Section the hair carefully when you use your color, making use of a "pasting" motion with the brush.Then flick end a brand-new section with your tail-comb and continue in this way.The finer and an ext consistent her sections, the much better a lifting an outcome you will certainly get.

Near source application v Brilliant Blondexx Bleach

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach processing for 35 min near the root.

8. Just how do I execute a full head bleach?

If your client"s entire head is dark, or brassy you will need to do a full head application 

Section the hair right into 4 big sections with sectioning clips.Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections utilizing your tail comb.Start using bleach in the back of the head where the hair is normally darkest and also thickest, working your way round come the former sections, in half-inch sections.

Work fast so that that friend can give the entirety head an equal amount of handling time.

Keep the root area to the last uneven the hair is an extremely short: it is walk to process faster there, so friend need less processing time.If you have been making use of 30 Vol developer for the lengths, that is a an excellent idea to do a fresh mix, through 20 Vol this time for the root area.

Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair with bleach.Watch carefully and rinse as soon as done, and rinse anyway after ~ 30-35 minutes.If ~ rinsing you check out that the hair is still no a pale yellow level 9/10, for this reason a second application, making use of 20 Vol developer just this time.

Section the hair, climate start using the bleach native the back.

9. Exactly how do I get a nice even consistent an outcome from roots to ends? 

Very regularly clients have hair i m sorry is various colors. Take the client below:


This model has:

a regrowth area which is level 6mid-lengths which have been colored but which space brassy yellow - level 8/9ends which have been lightened many times in the past and also are really pale white blonde - level 10.

Clearly, it would certainly be a mistake to just apply bleach come the entirety head. Friend won"t gain a an excellent result the way. You could also end up through breakage problems on those level 10 ends.

In such cases you as the barber will require to have a clean bleaching strategy. 

In the over case, we applied bleach an initial to the level 6 root area, then extended to the brassy part. We did no apply any type of bleach come the level 10 area.

Then we rinsed. Then us toned through an Ugly Duckling toner.

10. Just how do I Tone the Hair after Bleaching?

You will have to tone the hair v a good quality toner. Otherwise over there will constantly be part yellow left.

Ugly Duckling toners are very fast acting & castle remove any kind of remaining yellowness in the hair. They act in 10- 15 minutes. They can be applied on wet hair which has been towel dried after bleaching.

Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense silver Blonde 100B if your are in search of ultra white results and your hair still has a fair amount that yellow. 

Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or Silver Blonde Toner 10B if friend are have already completed a true level 10 and you room looking to do a update toning applications.

Ugly Duckling has other colour such together the blue based ash blonde collection which likewise work really well because that toning applications.Silver Grey and Smoky Blue Grey additionally work really well.

extreme Pearl Blonde 100V
intense Silver Blonde 100B
No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
No-Lift silver Blonde Toner 10B
silver- Grey
Smoky Blue Grey
Extra irradiate Cold Ash Blonde 10.1B
an extremely Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1B

And remember: never ever before start toning till you have lugged the hair to a continual level 10 from root to ends.

11. Just how do I perform a bleach wash?

If you desire to do a quick and light shade correction to eliminate existing color build up, mix equal components Brilliant Blondexx Bleach, 20 Vol developer, shampoo and also warm water.

Then apply and massage through the whole hair. Leave it for around 15 minutes and rinse off.

You should have the ability to get to escape of in ~ least an easy color accumulation in this way.

12. Exactly how long need to I leaving bleach in hair once I am using 20 Vol, 30 Vol & 40 Vol Developer?

First that all, we perform not recommend you use 40 Vol developer through bleach.

If you space using a good quality bleach, (and this contains Ugly Duckling bleaches the course) it will work and also lift very well with 20 or 30 Vol Developer.

For 20 and 30 Vol developer, the time taken deserve to vary from 15 minutes approximately 30 minutes.

Please note, however, over there is no fixed advancement time through bleach - you need to check every couple of minutes and also rinse when the hair is lifted.

If you see that specific parts the the hair are drying out throughout processing time or no lifting rapid enough, you have to use her judgement and include in an ext fresh mix that bleach

13. I beg your pardon Ugly Duckling Bleach is best for Me?

If girlfriend are trying to find a really gentle bleach and also you room looking come lift 2-7 levels, we would recommend our new Bond defend Brilliant Blondexx.It"s got a unique ingredient which includes anti-breakage properties, it"s very comfortable on the scalp, and also mixes come a color-like consistency.

If you have actually ultra dark asian hair, or if you have already box colored your hair and you require a super solid bleach to remove the color, then us would imply Brilliant Blonde 8 Level+ Bleach.It"s a blue anti-dust bleach. It can lift as much as 8 levels and also it has actually been especially formulated for dark oriental hair i m sorry is the hardest of all to lift.

New brilliant Blondexx through Bond Protect: The only lightener in the US with Bond Protect built in. Recommended for most bleaching cases, especially for near scalp and also root applications.


Brilliant Blonde Lightener: 8+ Level Lift. Recommended for dark bases & wherein ultra high background is needed.

15. What Hair treatment Should I use After Bleaching and Toning?

There are 2 hair care ranges the Ugly Duckling would certainly recommend after ~ bleaching.

The very first is Ugly Duckling"s Purple Shampoo or Mask. 

These products give you additional toning and aid keep the hair really white. They contain really intense pigments which help fight yellow.

Learn more About purple Shampoo and also Mask Here.

See pictures below.



The second is the brilliant Blondexx Hair treatment & therapy Line.

These products contain Bond protect and help strengthen bleached hair. 

Learn an ext About excellent Blondexx Hair care Here.

16. What if I only want come go medium blonde. Carry out I still need bleach?

Using bleach is necessary whenever you desire to elevator hair by 3 levels and more. So if her hair is brown or also light brown (level 4) , and you want to go to medium blonde (level 8), you have actually a 4 level lift to do. And also that calls for bleach!


Case No.1

Our model had previously lightened blonde hair with a dark regrowth. It was additionally rather fragile.We used excellent Blondexx Bond safeguard Bleach v 20 Vol Developer and lifted her root area all the way up come a level 10.The processing time for the bleach was about 35 minutes. This to be done through 20 Vol developer.Then us toned through Pearl Blonde toner and 20 Vol Developer when more.Finally, we did one really vigorous and thorough application of brilliant Blonde violet Shampoo. The result was a perfect white blonde result - no hair damage and also no breakage!

Watch the video clip Now!

Hair through Elona Taki.

See more: Why Don'T We Take Bikini Bottom, Push It Somewhere Else Patrick


Brilliant Blondexx Bond protect Lightener20 Vol DeveloperPearl Blonde TonerBrilliant Blonde purple Shampoo

Case No.2

Lifting up of an extremely dark source area utilizing Brilliant Blondexx.

Watch the video clip now!

Hair by Ashley Betancourt


Brilliant Blondexx Bond defend Lightener10 V Pearl Blonde Toner20 & 30 Vol DeveloperBrilliant Blondexx Shampoo & Mask
around the author Sally Madison, National color Trainer.

Sally has actually been a hair colorist and trainer for plenty of years in both the us & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She likewise helps develop new & awesome assets for the brand.